Dave's Transformers Kingdom Rant: Deluxe Wave 3 Predacon Scorponok (scorpion) Wingfinger (pteradon fossil) Autobot Tracks (sportscar) Autobot Road Rage (Tracks retool) http://www.eyrie.org/~dvandom/BW/Gen/DeluxeK3 Also shipping in this wave is a re-package of Wheeljack from Earthrise (as WFC-K24). Road Rage is a Target RedCard exclusive, but since it's in regular packaging rather than Generations or other special packaging, I'm including it in this review so it'll be with Tracks. Note, Road Rage may not ever show up in a store near you, so if you're interested you'll want to get a RedCard or a friend who has one. (Limit two per customer, though.) CAPSULES $20-23 price point. Predacon Scorponok: It's pretty show-accurate, but the ways in which it deviates from that are pretty jarring. This really needed a Voyager's budget to work, though, as it doesn't hold together well in either mode. Despite all the articulation, it's not really good at posing. Neutral. Wingfinger: Surprisingly good, in that I was expecting it to suck, and it's actually good. It has a lot more flexibility in terms of "build what you want" than the other two Fossilizer molds. Recommended. Autobot Tracks: Looks good, interesting transformation, but it has some bits that required better tolerances than Hasbro can manage, leading to looseness in the legs. Also, while the vehicle mode is very firmly connected, that can be a hassle in going back to robot mode. Missing some paint apps that would have helped a lot. Mildly recommended. Autobot Road Rage: A good fan-service (but not that kind, she's a bodyguard not a bodypillow) retool. Shares the flaws of the original mold, including the paint apps lack. If you have or are willing to get a RedCard, it's moderately worth it (unlike Redwing, it's not an overused mold, which raises it in my esteem). RANTS Packaging: Same as previous Kingdom Deluxes. Interestingly, Road Rage's art is a straight recolor of the line work (well, rendering) from Tracks's box, not even a tiny change to the pose. PREDACON: PREDACON SCORPONOK Assortment: WFC-K23 Altmode: Scorpion Transformation Difficulty: 24 steps Previous Name Use: None with the "Predacon" attachment Previous Mold Use: None Packaging: Four ties hold the robot to the front of the cardstock tray, with the tail and beast legs stuck through a hold in the tray. The missile warheads and MegaBee are on the inside of the "footer" of the tray, one tie each. Got the Dinobot with fate, "Becomes Dinomus...herald of Unicron." (And I've already seen someone customizing a Dinobot into Dinomus.) Due to an assembly error of some sort, the right shoulder on mine won't lock down in place in robot mode. Robot Mode: Well, he's short. He looks like a disposable grunt rather than an intimidating enforcer. Mind you, with two glaring exceptions he does look like the animation model (well, three if you count the fact that the animation model just made the beast legs shrink way down). One the stinger isn't the blade shape seen on the show or the original toy, it's more like a real scorpion's stinger. Two, it looks like he's wearing a heavy padded vest or something, making his torso weirdly flat and way too wide at the bottom. The head looks a little big by comparison as well, part of what makes him look tiny I guess. 4.75" (12cm) tall at the top of the head, a little over 6" (15cm) tall to the tail depending on how you pose it. The colors are mostly purples and grays with some gold and dark red. Medium gray plastic is used on the torso, pelvis, upper arms, forearms, tail, hips, thighs, ankle joints, left heel, the missile piece, and the Megabee. Shiny slightly grayish purple plastic is used for the head, shoulderpads, claws, lower legs, and toes. Dark red plastic is found on the stinger, the beast legs, and the wrists. There's gold paint on the helmet forehead and sides, the chest gem, the visor slit, the tops of the forearms, and the fronts of the shins. The lower face is silver, with darker purple on the upper face. The darker purple paint is also used for the tips of the toes and some bands around the tops of the boots. Purple paint with a decent match to the plastic is airbrushed along the outer faces of the forearms, painted onto the goatee, the front of the pelvis, and the vents on the hips. A lighter purple-gray is airbrushed onto the chest front and visible parts of the tail. All but the peg of the missile piece is painted dark red, and the Megabee has dark red eyes and metallic purple wings. The neck is a very restricted ball joint, the waist is a swivel. The shoulders are universal joints, there's bicep swivels, hinge elbows, swivel wrists, and hinged claws (both halves, but be careful they can pop off easily). Universal joint hips, thigh swivels, hinge knees. Both ankles have sideways hinges to keep the feet flat. The right foot also has a proper ankle joint, but the left only lets the toe fold down, as the heel spur is part of the ankle joint (it goes into a hole in the tail in beast mode). The tail has two hinges to let it swing over the head, and a ball joint for the tiny stinger. Note, the "missiles" are just the warhead tips, two of them joined together, with a peg to attach inside either claw. They don't fire, and the piece is only 2cm long including the 5mm peg. The Megabee (which almost looks more like a hornet) is 23mm long including the 5mm peg. It's well-detailed, at least. I might paint it up a bit more like a bee. There's 5mm sockets inside each claw, 5mm sockets on the undersides of the toes, intentional 3mm sockets on the back of the pelvis and the underside of the tail backpack. There's also some 3mm sockets on the outer faces of the claws, which are weird. Transformation: Ugh. I had to read the instructions on this one because almost no part of it feels like it's done when it is actually done. Things don't fold all the way, just part-way. Things just sort of rest against each other rather than locking. At least the assembly defect on mine doesn't impact transformation. Anyway, the chest splits open and the head ducks down a little, then the backpack unfolds to put the beast head over the robot head. Mostly. The shoulders lift up to almost touch between the beast fangs and the robot head, with the arms then positioning properly as claws. The robot legs rotate a bit weirdly, with one curling up inside the hollow back of the tail, while the other bends double and tucks between the chest halves. Nothing actually closes up, they're all just sort of held there by joint friction. Then position the beast legs in the one pose that looks good. Going back to robot mode, if you push the pelvis up until it feels solid, the chest won't lock closed. The little joint bit above the pelvis has to be kinda loose below the torso. Altmode: At first glance is looked reasonably scorpion-like, although it shares the usual problem of being unable to actually attack anything with its stinger, since the robot leg stuck inside the tail locks most of the joints in place. It's also a pretty big scorpion considering how the robot more looks like a dwarven version of the character. The legs are purely decorative, and really only have joints so that they can get out of the way in robot mode...it rests on the robot shin inside the belly, and while there's three ball joints on either side (front leg, rear leg, and then the two middle legs share one), there's not much you can do with them that doesn't look bad. 6.75" (16.5cm) long, with the body and tail being mainly gray, the claws holding most of the visible purple, and dark red mostly for the stinger, legs, and fangs. The beast head is that gray plastic, with dark red paint on the eyes (just two) and the fangs, plus some purplish-gray paint airbrushed on. No eyebrows, so not shooting for BW animation homage. As in robot mode, there's light purple-gray paint airbrushed on the carapace bits. No other paints or new plastics. The claws retain the articulation of the arms, the legs have the not very useful ball joints previously mentioned, and only the ball joint and last hinge of the tail can move. It's hard to move anything without making something come deranged, though, since nothing really locks in place. The 3mm socket from the back of the robot pelvis is accessible on the right side behind where the legs attach, and the claws still open to reveal their 5mm sockets, but there's no other connection points in this mode. And no, I can't get a Fire Blast to stay put on the stinger. (If this toy was worth modding, I'd suggest a 3P stinger replacement set, one with the BW-toy blade, and one with a 3mm stud tip.) Overall: I guess they tried to be show-accurate, but the result really didn't work as a Deluxe. They needed the budget of a Voyager to pull off this design properly, even leaving aside the shortness. MAXIMAL: WINGFINGER Assortment: WFC-K25 Altmode: Pteradon fossil Transformation Difficulty: 14 steps Previous Name Use: None Previous Mold Use: None Notable as the only regular-colors Fossilizer to be a Maximal rather than a Predacon. Still haven't seen anything about a redeco in weird colors as a Predacon, though (post-magma Terrorsaur would have been an interesting choice, but they're going with a serious retool of Airazor for that). Packaging: Five ties hold the robot to the tray. Then two more hold the beast skull behind the tray, and another two hold the finger-swords inside the "footlocker" area. Got Megatron with the fate, "Becomes Galvatron." Robot Mode: He has the pelvic thrust that really drives you insay-ay-ay- ay-ane. Frankly, of all the problems this spindly bot mode has, the extreme pelvis probably contributes most to it looking bad-weird. You can rotate it so that his butt plates become an armor skirt, although this does put his 3mm socket in front rather than in back. More than other Fossilizers, this is pretty customizable...there's an extra joint in the thighs that doesn't seem to be used for anything else but lets you make the figure digitigrade in stance if you prefer. So, it's a very spindly skeleton, with ribcage halves as upper arms, but since it's more uniformly spindly (unlike Paleotrex) this is less of a problem. Where they really dropped the ball, though, is on the face. It's just a bunch of horizontal bands that I guess were meant to evoke a ninja mask or Wheeljack's face or something, but the lack of actual eyes (just the top part painted a different color) makes it look like just the inside of a mouth, with the rivet holes on the sides of the head becoming the effective eyes. (See below for link to a picture where I put googly eyes over the rivet holes.) In exchange for being skinny it gets to be tall, at 6.25" (16cm), as tall as some modern Voyagers (although going digitigrade with the legs lowers that a bit). The colors are a mix of regular white, bone white, and light tan (a sort of sandstone look, for fossilization). Pure white plastic is used on the lower spine, pelvis, buttskirt, shins, feet, forearms, fists, swords, a piece inside the chest, and most of the beast head. Bone white plastic is used on the center vertebra, the head, upper arms, front and back parts of the upper torso, thighs, and the back bit of the beast head (which detaches and becomes a different head, likely for a combiner, see below). Sandstone (and more matte) plastic is used on the shoulder joints, the elbow joints, the hip joints, and the lower part of each thigh. Gloss black paint is used between the ribs on the upper arms, on the lower face, inside the beast skull and on the inside of the lower jaw of the beast skull. There's light tan paint that's used on the forearms, pelvis, and feet to help blend colors together, and some lighter bone white on the chest and the top of the head. There's also light tan paint loosely slopped on the beast skull for weathering effects. The upper part of the robot face is metallic blue, and there's a red Meximal symbol on the top of the head (or the nose, if you can't help but see the robot face as just being the inside of the mouth and the overall head as a sort of muppet hadrosaur). It wasn't until I dyed a second one red for a customization project (see below) that I discovered that the ribs are also painted very light off-white, and the beast skull has way more paint than I thought (including part of the detachable crest). The head is on a ball joint, and there's a riveted swivel at mid-spine, plus the peg where the upper torso connects to the spine is a bit loose. The shoulders are pinned universal joints, the elbows are pinned hinges and the forearms are pegged onto that (socket part in the forearm. The wrists are semi-restricted ball joints that can bend in one direction for beast mode. The hips are sockets that go onto 5mm pegs on either side of the pelvis, and then have pinned hinges. The knees work the same as the elbows in terms of hinge and peg, but there's a second hinge above each true knee that bends only in the "normal" knee direction, while the true knees bend either way. I suspect this was included to allow digitigrade stance, but there's nothing in the instructions that uses the above-knee hinges. There's a main forwards and backwards hinge for the ankle, and the toe has its own separate hinge just below that. The wingtip pieces are 2.5" (6.5cm) long with 5mm grip handles, identical to each other. They also have rectangular slots on either side just above the grip, which are for storage on the backs of the arms. The beast skull (4.5"/11cm long) is also meant to be a sort of minigun under-arm weapon, but you can't use it and both swords at once. It otherwise stores on the back on a 5mm socket, looking like a sheathed sword or something. It has a main peg for the neck or weapon attachment, and a secondary peg that's not really accessible and is only for when the second head is detached. In addition to the pegs and sockets already spoken for, there's 5mm sockets on the inner upper arms, the undersides of the toes, and the underside of the beast skull. There's 5mm pegs on the forearms (which are officially used to attach them to shoulder/upper arm sockets as a sort of armor) and one on the spine just under the chest. There's a 3mm socket on the back of the pelvis piece. Transformation: Other than the head and swords, you actually only NEED to undo one peg (the spine) to transform this, everything else can be left attached. Separate the top and bottom at the spine. Close the head and lower it a bit, then lift the arms up so that the tabs on the sides of the head go into slots on the ribcage backing parts. The peg that held the chest to the spine was a little loose because it's D-shaped, and now goes snugly into a D-shaped slot on the underside of the pelvis to lock in place. Adjust the positions of the legs and put the swords into the toe 5mm sockets to complete the wings. Then attach the beast skull to the spine, and pose either in flight mode or waddling about mode. The robot pelvis front is now a beast sternum. Altmode: At first glance it's a decent skeletal pteradon, but there's a bunch of little things that don't quite work. The biggest problem is the wing claws, which are both huge and bent the wrong direction. The weird spike on the crest (due to that combiner head) is a bit weird too. Also, while hopefully not a problem in all samples, mine has a very loose neck peg, even after several layers of Future it spins around freely in the socket. In a flying pose, it's 8.5" (21.5cm) long (although about half of that is head) with a wingspan of about 11" (28cm). No new colors visible, and the Maximal symbol is largely hidden under the tail. The neck is hinged above the peg attachment, and swivels very easily and loosely at the peg. The lower jaw is hinged and opens up with a snap past a notch, it can't really stably stay between closed and 45 degrees open, but once past 45 degrees it moves freely. All of the leg joints are present in the wings, while the new legs have the elbow and wrist joints of robot mode. (The second one I grabbed for customizing purposes had a loose neck too, so it's probably a common issue.) There's no real place to mount flying mode on a flight base. I mean, if the joints in the head were really stiff, the 5mm socket on the underside of the jaw could be used, but that's a non-starter (that socket is there for the pick weapon mode). While not shown in the instructions, which are purely in a flying pose, or the box art, which is a "standing unsteadily on just the hind legs" pose, it is possible to fold the wings so that it has more of a proper four-limbed stance. The wingtips need to be about twice as long to match this picture from Wikipedia, though: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pteranodon#/media/File:Pteranodon_model_in_Vienna.jpg In the quadrupedal stance, it's about 5.5" (14.5cm) tall and won't fall off the shelf. Weapon Modes: While Tracks is shown on the box as wearing the pieces, Wheeljack models them in the instructions. The main loadout gives the wearer wings and a pick weapon, but a secondary one makes a large bow weapon out of about half the pieces. Arguably the best weapon mode of the three Deluxe Fossilizer molds, the wings look good and the pick is tolerable (the head is the pick part, while the torso and upper arms splay out as an awkward haft). Undocumented Feature: The back end of the beast skull is removable and becomes an alternate head, which is probably intended for the Fossilizer Combiner that we never got instructions for (although an official video showed how to make it). Opening it at the hinge shows a metallic blue vision slit, and the neck peg is 5mm in diameter and on a hinge. (Since the regular head is on a ball joint, you can't swap heads.) https://tfwiki.net/wiki/Fossilizer_Combiner shows the semi-official combination revealed at Hasbro FanFest 2021. As you can see, this piece does indeed form the head of the combiner, with the Ractonite beast skull forming the helmet around it. And since I started writing this review, AllSpark.com put up a more step-by-step guide to making it: https://www.allspark.com/transformers-kingdom-fan-first-friday-fossilizer-instruction-guide/ And now, some pictures of things I referred to above. Gerwalk mode: http://www.dvandom.com/images/WingfingerGerwalk.JPG Short robot: http://www.dvandom.com/images/WingfingerShorty.JPG New eyes: http://www.dvandom.com/images/WingfingerEyes.JPG Quadruped: http://www.dvandom.com/images/WingfingerQuad.JPG Post-Lava Terrorsaur: http://www.dvandom.com/kitbash/LavaTerror.JPG (I got the second copy of Wingfinger to do this customization) Overall: From early pictures, I expected this to be the worst of the Fossilizers, but I actually ended up liking it the most of the three Deluxes. It's a lot more flexible in terms of making up your own modes, has better beast mode articulation, and its weapon modes are pretty good. AUTOBOT: AUTOBOT TRACKS Assortment: WFC-K26 Altmode: Sportscar/flying sportscar Transformation Difficulty: 21 steps Previous Name Use: Alt (with "Autobot," several times without) Previous Mold Use: None Packaging: Seven ties on the robot, including the wings which are pointed straight up in order to fit in the box. The backpack is on the other side of the tray and needs to be undone a bit to get through. The pistol and overhead weapon are secured in the "footlocker," two on the pistol and one on the missile launcher (which is all a single piece). Got the Blackarachnia card with fate, "Ascends to leader of the Predacons," with art of her in robot mode in front of beast mode Retrax and Buzzclaw; and robot mode Waspinator, Manterror, and weirdly, the Target exclusive purple version of Beast Hunters Predaking ("Cyberverse" class, aka the Legion class's big brother Commander before they repurposed THAT name, oy). Robot Mode: Well, it looks like Tracks should, and while it has a bit of a shell backpack, it doesn't deviate too much from his animated appearance. One weird design bit is how the feet are not connected directly to the shins, but instead are connected to fender pieces that are connected to the outer faces of the lower legs. Unfortunately, the fenders don't really lock into place well, the tabs that are supposed to secure them are way too shallow. Reportedly, some have stiffened up some of the pinned joints, but the fix was described to me as "nerve wracking," and simply using a hammer and a pin punch didn't drive them in enough to help. 5" (12.5cm) tall at the head, 5.5" (14cm) to the top of the backpack if you have the missile launcher on it. Mostly blue, gray, and white, with some splashes of red, silver, and yellow. Most of the backpack is made of clear light blue plastic, albeit with much paint on it. Actual medium blue plastic is on the very top of the backpack, the torso front, pelvis skirt, forearms, and most of each boot. Medium gray plastic is found on the torso core, the fists, pelvis, and thighs. The ball parts of the ankle joints are also medium gray plastic, presumably a slippery joint variety. The head is white plastic, as are the shoulders, the wings, the "missile launcher" weapon, the fold-out tail fins in the backpack, the knee joints, and struts inside the boots. Black plastic is found on the wheels, feet, and blackout pistol. And it turns out that the shins are also black plastic, although the paint job (all gray) is good enough that if Road Rage didn't have black shins I might not have realized Tracks did too. Lots of blue paint on the backpack. The tops and most of the outer faces of the forearms are painted gray in a very good match to the plastic. As are the shins, as noted above. The details on top of the forearms are yellow with red vents. The center of the chest has a yellow square with red Autobot symbol printed on it. The face is red and the eyes light blue. Metallic light blue is used for the fake windows on the chest. Much of the front of the armor skirt is painted white, and the wheel hubs are painted silver. The backs of the boots are made of the car hood, and have the red flames with white outline Autobot symbol split between them. The wings are unpainted, leaving off the red stripes seen on both the G1 toy and the G1 animation model. (Of course, so much paint is on the car to cover clear plastic that it's amazing there was any paint budget left.) The neck is a restricted ball joint, further restricted by the post behind the head. The waist is a simple swivel. The roots of the shoulders are swivels on transformation struts that swing forwards and backwards a bit in this mode, and then there's "lift to the sides" hinges a little further out. The wings are on swivels attached to the backs of the shoulders. There's bicep swivels, hinge elbows, and the wrists bend inward on rather loose transformation hinges. The hips are universal joints, with the armor skirt hinged to get out of the way. Upper thigh swivels, hinge knees, and ball joint ankles with that weird Xevoz-style horizontal strut for the ball part. The figure is much more in the spirit of Earthrise with the connectors than some Kingdom toys. There's 5mm sockets on top of the backpack, at the top of the back face of the backpack, on top of each shoulder, on the outer face of each forearm, outer face of each boot, under each heel, and of course in each hand. There's 3mm studs on the left wing, the upper right torso front, and the front of each shin. The pelvis 3mm socket is a bit hard to get at under the backpack, though. Note, they did not make the wingtip sorta-guns 3mm compatible, probably because that would make it harder to fit in vehicle mode. The blackout gun is stubby at only 1.5" (3.5cm) long, with a 3mm stud at the muzzle and a 5mm grip near the back. The "missile launcher" is molded more as a dual cannon 1.25" (3cm) long and an inch (2.5cm) wide, with a 5mm grip, a 5mm socket on top between the barrels (so the blackout pistol can mount on top of it), and a 3mm stud on each of the two barrel tips. The package render shows him holding the missile launcher in his hand, but the instructions show the proper over-the-head mounting. Transformation: Pretty involved, with some panel tab issues, but probably the trickiest part is that you have to swing the feet over the tops of the hips to get the front fenders swung around to face the right way. If you don't do it just right, you have to basically bend the plastic to get things moved around, which is not a happy-making thing. The spine needs to be lengthened in order for there to be room for this maneuvering. A few bits were less intuitive than others, one of which was the fake hood chest, which needs to be firmly collapsed inwards so that there's enough room for the robot feet. If you don't do that in advance, the part might not want to collapse automatically due to friction and the feet pushing at an angle. The flying car mode is kind of an intermediate step, as it's a lot easier to get all the panels snapped together if you leave the arms out until the last step. Although you do need to specifically fold out the tail fins to get the proper flying car (they snap into their joint axles, and can pop out pretty easily). Going back to robot mode, probably the only new hassle is that the windshield part is really securetly snapped to the roof, and separating them feels like it might break the toy. Also, the windshield locks VERY securely onto tabs on the boots. You might need a knife to pop it back off. Okay, really, most of the tabs that keep the car securely together are hard to undo. Car Mode: A legally generic sports car that does still manage to evoke the look of G1 Tracks's altmode (Chevy Corvette C3), although they went with the simplified all-red hood flames of the animation model. Also, they didn't repeat the Autobot symbol on the real roof, something the animation model (usually) did. The problems with the front fenders in robot mode continue here, as they don't really lock in place. Other tabs keep them from rotating, but they sort of spread apart and leave small gaps on either side of the hood. 4.75" (12cm) long, about 1:39 scale if it's supposed to be a C3. Almost entirely blue, with clear blue windows, red hood flames, and black wheels with silver hubs. The windshield, roof, and much of the back end are made of clear light blue plastic, the rest of the body shell is medium blue plastic (a UV flashlight makes it really obvious which parts are painted blue, as the blue plastic glows strongly and the blue paint doesn't glow at all). Bits of the shins are visible as part of the front end air dam, and the flight mode tail fins look like aborted rally stripes in back. The hood flames are just red, with a white outline Autobot symbol in the center. There's black paint on the intake vents on the front end. The taillights and license plate area are molded but not painted. A 5mm socket is accessible on the trunk, and it's where the combined weapon is meant to be stored in this mode. There's a 5mm socket on each front fender behind the wheels. The top-of-backpack 5mm socket sits between two molded exhaust pipes (which are too narrow for 3mm pegs) under the rear bumper. Flying Car: Officially, the blue parts of the forearms are on top, so the 5mm sockets on the forearms are inaccessible, but the weapons all mount on the trunk anyway. The wingspan is 5" (12.5cm). The rear bumper 5mm socket is too shallow for a flight base to work well with it, but it can hold a smaller Fire Blast as a thruster plume. There's really no flight base connection point on the underside, but a pincher claw could grab onto the exposed spine pieces. The tail fins are also unpainted, missing the red bits from the animation model. (The G1 toy didn't have tail fins for flight mode.) Overall: Pretty good, although it doesn't get as close to the animation model as it could have, and the transformation leads to issues with the front fenders in both modes. AUTOBOT: AUTOBOT ROAD RAGE Assortment: WFC-K41 Altmode: Sportscar/flying sportscar Transformation Difficulty: 21 steps Previous Name Use: Masterpiece (and various exclusives) Previous Mold Use: Gen:Kingdom Road Rage started as an E-Hobby exclusive redeco of a G1 Tracks reissue, then got used in TFCC's Timelines toys before being a Masterpiece. This may be the most accessible version of the toy (pretty sure MP Road Rage didn't go to any mass-market stores), but she's always some sort of exclusive or limited release. She's also in the IDW comics as Nautica's bodyguard. Packaging: The outside of the box is standard Kingdom Deluxe, with re-"painted" box art, but new renders with new poses for the box back. Inside, the packaging is similar, but lacks the trading card or its storage area. Same arrangement of plastic ties holding the robot mode in as on Tracks. Color Swaps: Blue becomes red, white becomes very dark blue, gray becomes white. Black stays black, clear light blue stays clear light blue. Paint Apps: The top of the chest is painted white. The top and most of the outer face of each forearm is painted gloss black, and the fake windows on the chest are also gloss black. The chest Autobot symbol is red with silver border on a black field. The face is silver and the eyes are the same light blue as Tracks's eyes. The wheel hubs are still silver. In car mode, red paint wherever Tracks had blue, with the same "UV light makes it obvious" bit. The hood flames are yellow and orange in the pattern seen on the G1 Tracks toy, with red Autobot symbol printed in the middle. The front end vents are black. Mold Changes: Only the head is new. The face is narrower and more feminine, the helmet wraps around the cheeks more, and the helmet crest is more like a G1 Ratchet shape than the Tracks shape. It's also not as deep, so it can turn all the way without being blocked by the post behind the head. Other Notes: Has the same fender issues, but is slightly less loose than Tracks, probably just QC lottery. Since Road Rage was launched as a retool of Masterpiece Tracks, she doesn't really have an animation model to match. However, the comics went with the MP colors, which means this toy is missing wing stripes, white lower shins, red kneecaps and some red and white bits on the forearms. Some of her appearances have her wings horizontal in robot mode, while Tracks is usually seen in animation with his wings at about 45 degrees, so you can further distinguish the two via wing angles in your display area. (Speaking of which, I still have Nautica out on my main display, so of course Road Rage has to stand next to her.) Overall: A decent mold, and given her appearances in the new IDW continuity it's nice to have a toy that isn't insanely expensive. Dave Van Domelen, owns the Ark but putting off reviewing it until probably holiday break.