Dave's Game Rant: Attacktix TF House Rules Spun off 8/5/06, terrain rules added. For the most part, this file is an attempt to re-represent the largely pictorial rules into text, and clear up some vague bits. It also splices in the Battle Master rules and spackles over some gaps. At the end there are pure house rules for multiplayer games and the use of terrain. 1.0 The Figures 2.0 Setup 3.0 The Turn 4.0 Multiplayer Rules (optional) 5.0 Terrain (optional) 6.0 Etiquette 1.0 The Figures: Each figure consists of two parts, a sculpt and a base. The sculpt has several points of articulation, and holds either a Melee or Ranged weapon. Those with Ranged weapons come with one or more missiles. Be sure to keep track of which missile goes with what figure, as not all of them are interchangeable. The base has information on the top, the front, the back and the bottom, and rolls along on a wheel on its bottom. Each time the ratchet on these wheels clicks is called a "tik", with "tix" being the plural. A window on the top of the base shows the current Speed value. The label on the front shows (from left to right) the point value, the Attacktix Class (see below), the name and the Faction Class (see below). The label on the rear shows the figure's collector's number and provides a space for the owner to write their name and any other identifying information. The bottom of the base shows the figure's special ability as well as a window that lets you know if the special ability is currently active. Attacktix Classes and Faction Classes (called Transformers Classes in the Transformers version of the game) are important for some special abilities, which may only work on a particular Class, or may not work on a particular class. Classes have no independent game effect. Attacktix Classes are Warrior (W), Leader (L), Captain (C), Trooper (T), Specialist (S) and Mega (M), indicated by a single letter on the front label. Transformers Classes are Autobot and Decepticon, indicated by the relevant faction symbol on the front label. Star Wars Classes include Jedi, Droid Army, Wookiee, Sith, Republic and Separatist. Additional Faction Classes are possible in later expansions. 2.0 Setup: Each player picks a battle force, with point totals equalling a multiple of 100 points agreed on by both players. Each player also picks a Back-Up force, with point totals equalling half the points agreed on for the battle force. Your force may have more than one of a given figure, and may have figures that your opponent also has. The labels on the base are useful for avoiding confusion in such a case. You may have figures from multiple factions, or even mix sets (i.e. Darth Vader and Megatron teaming up). Battle Masters: These are oversized figures with extra missiles or enhanced melee attacks. Because they are so hard for regular figures to defeat and have extra firepower, both players should agree in advance on the number of Battle Masters allowed. Each player should have the same number of Battle Masters, regardless of point totals. You may place Battle Masters in your Back-Up force, but they still count against your total allowed number of Battle Masters. Battle Masters are not allowed in official tournaments. Pick two starting lines 3 feet (or 1 meter, if you prefer) apart on any flat surface. "Grind" each of the figures in your battle force (move them forward several times without looking at the Speed window, to randomize the starting speed) and place them with their fronts touching your starting line. You may then advance any of your figures up to 2 tix from the starting line. Set Back-Up force figures aside in one location, and establish another location for defeated figures. Do not mix them up, as some special abilities only allow bringing figures into play from one or the other group. Determine first player by covering the speed window on a Back-Up figure and grind it. If the number is red, the player whose figure it was goes first, if the number is white, the other player goes first. You're now ready to play! 3.0 The Turn: 3.1: Move as many of your figures as you want. 3.2: Attack with up to two of your figures. 3.3: Resolve any special abilities of defeated opponent figures. 3.4: Check for victory. 3.5: Reset weapons. 3.1 Movement: On your turn, you may move every figure in your battle force a number of tix up to the value showing in their Speed window at the start of the move. You may turn the figure at any angle, but cannot move backwards. You may stop at a value smaller than the maximum (for instance, if you see an exceptionally high Speed show up, and want to start on that next turn). You do not have to move a figure at all. Example: You have a figure with a 5 showing in the Speed window. You can move 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 tix, turning at any point along the way. You must finish moving any figures you intend to move before making any attacks. Note: You may move your figure so that it touches an opposing figure, but may NOT push the opposing figure or otherwise move them during your movement. 3.2 Attack: You may attack with up to two of your figures. Before making an attack, you may adjust the weapon using any articulation the sculpt possesses, but you can only turn the base during the movement phase. You may ask your opponent to keep the base of your figure steady for you while you adjust the articulation. (In friendly games, it's okay to turn the base as well, especially when dealing with melee attacks.) Most Melee attacks are made by twisting the figure and letting it go, attempting to knock over a nearby target. There are three special forms of Melee attacks: Throwing, Jabbing and Claw. Throwing attacks use a lifting motion rather than a sideways slashing motion to attack opponents, and are potentially more effective against Battle Masters than other Melee attacks. Jabbing attacks thrust at the target with a missile-like weapon that is designed to not leave the launcher. Claw attacks are like Jabbing attacks, but once the weapon is in contact with the target, a knob at the back may be turned to attempt to throw the opponent. Ranged attacks involve firing a missile at the target. Regular figures fire a single missile, Battle Masters may fire up to four. A Battle Master must stop firing if a figure is knocked over, in order to check the special abilities. It may resume firing in the same direction if desired (for instance, if the special ability allows the figure to stand back up, or if there is a target behind it). It may not change the aiming direction between shots, however. Any attack that knocks its target over so that the entire base is no longer on the surface "defeats" that target. This includes a "ring out" where the figure remains upright but its base is no longer inside the defined playing surface (relevant only if you have sharply defined the play area in some way). If you accidentally knock your own figure over with your hand, it is not defeated, but if you accidentally knock your own figure down with an attack (Melee or Ranged), it is defeated. Special Defeat Condition: Battle Master figures have a pair of target switches on them. If both of these switches are tripped, the figure will fall over and is Defeated. Accidentally tripping these switches yourself works the same as accidental knock-over above. Note that hitting the figure in the upper body hard enough may also trigger the "fall over" feature, and simply knocking the Battle Master over through main force also works. If the Battle Master leans over but does not actually fall, it is still considered to be Defeated. 3.3 Special Abilities: When a figure is defeated, check the window on the bottom of its base. If it shows a white rectangle, then the figure's special ability may come into play. Each special ability has a name (like "Transform") and text that explains what it does (i.e. Transform lets you exchange a figure with the alternate mode version of the same-named figure, but only if it's in your Back-Up force, not from the Defeated Area). If the special ability refers to another figure by Name, Attacktix Class or Faction Class, and that figure is available (i.e. in Back-Up or Defeated area, or is the figure using the ability), then the special ability is used IMMEDIATELY unless it specifies otherwise. If no relevant figure is available, the special ability fails. Unless the special ability returns the user to play, move the defeated figure to the Defeated area once the ability is either used or is determined to be unusable. If a special ability brings any figure into play, grind it, then place it at your starting line and move it 2 tix straight backwards. This is the only time when you should move a figure backwards. 3.4 Check for Victory: If, at the end of the turn, one player has no upright figures left in play, that player loses. Figures returned to play by special abilities and behind the starting line count as "in play". 3.5 Reset Figures: Reload any missiles, reset any Jabbing or Claw weapons. Any tripped switches on Battle Master figures are reset as well. You may not leave missiles unloaded during your opponent's turn, since they represent part of the "hittable" figure. 4.0 Multiplayer Rules: There are two ways to play Attacktix with more than 2 players: team, and free-for-all. Team play is simpler to set up, especially for odd numbers of players. 4.1 Team play: Each team starts with the same number of points in each side's battle force and Back-Up force, split however the players wish. There need not be the same number of players on each side. All figures on a team set up at the same starting line, and starting lines may remain 3 feet apart. After grinding all figures and setting them up, each player totals the Speed values visible on the figures they own. The player with the smallest number goes first, and play proceeds clockwise around the table from there. On a player's turn, they get to attack with 1 figure for every 100 points they contributed to the battle force, rounding fractions (so 149 points gives one attack, 150 gives two). Special Abilities that apply to your own side can apply to anyone on your team. Special abilities that apply to your opponent may only be used on members of the opposing team, not your own teammates. The game ends when a team has no figures left in play. If a player runs out of figures, they must pass (but it's possble for them to get back into the game if a teammate's figure has a special ability that can bring out figures for them). 4.2 Free-for-all: This only really works for 3-4 players. 3-player setup - Define a 3 foot by 3 foot playing area (or 1 meter on a side). One player chooses a side to set up on. All of that player's figures must start at least 8 inches (20cm) from the adjacent sides. The other two players set up on the adjacent sides, at least 16 inches (40cm) away from the first player's side. This should result in a roughly triangular arrangement. 4-player setup - Define a 4 foot by 4 foot playing area (or 1.3 meters on a side) Each player picks one side, and sets up with no figure less than 10 inches (25cm) from any other side. In both cases, use the "lowest speed total" method to determine first player, and continue clockwise from there. You may want to determine player one before setup, to detemine the order of picking starting locations. Special abilities that apply to your own figures cannot be used on any other player, even if you have formed a temporary alliance. Special abilities that apply to an opponent may be used on any opponent. Once a player has no undefeated figures, they drop out of the game at the end of the turn their last figure was removed. The game is over at the end of a turn in which only one player has figures in play. If running a free-for-all multiplayer tournament, the winner gets points equal to twice the number of players. Second place gets points equal to the number of players. In a four-player game, third place gets 1 point. Last place gets zero points. The two highest point-earners after the announced number of rounds play each other in a duel for the final round. 5.0 Terrain: Okay, the game is designed to be played on an empty tabletop, but odds are you'll want to spice things up after you've played a few times. This section has some house rules for putting stuff in the way. The rolling nature of the figures means that any terrain you use is going to have to either be drawn on the surface, or something that can be easily moved out of the way. Pieces of felt borrowed from the wargaming table won't work too well. Larger terrain should be made of pieces about the size of a typical figure base, so that it can be destroyed by part. For instance, a wall made of cocktail spears or folded index cards. 5.1 Terrain types: Any piece of terrain will have one or more of the following descriptors: high barrier, low barrier, slowing, cover, object. Cover is typically combined with low barrier or slowing, buy may stand alone. High barriers and objects do not combine with any other descriptor. High Barrier - You cannot shoot or move through this terrain. Any attack action will remove a section (no need to actually fire at it). Mega figures treat these as low barriers. Low Barrier - You may shoot over these. Any move that crosses one will end as soon as the figure is all the way on the other side. When crossing a low barrier, you may destroy the section crossed. An attack action will also destroy a section. Mega figures ignore these, but may destroy sections they cross if the player wishes. Slowing - You may shoot through this terrain. Any figure moving into this terrain stops as soon as it is entirely inside the terrain. Any figure starting a move in slowing terrain will only get half as many tix of movement (rounded up). Slowing terrain cannot generally be destroyed, and represents things like forests, mud, ice, swamp, etc. Cover - Typically applied to low barriers or slowing terrain. If a figure ends its move inside or touching cover terrain AND its speed number is red, then it may not attack or be attacked with ranged weapons so long as it stays put. If the figure is not inside the cover (i.e. with the low barrier, or being at the edge of slowing terrain), then only attacks that would cross the cover terrain are affected. It is possible to have a terrain be cover alone, and not be a low barrier or slowing terrain, but that should be rare. Mega figures may not take advantage of cover, and can ignore the cover provided by low barriers (but not by slowing terrain). Object - This is a physical object of some sort placed on the playing field, such as a half-full soda bottle or a book. It may be attacked as if it were a figure, but if knocked over it is left where it falls. If it can be knocked over by attacks, then a figure starting in contact with it may push it up to half its normal movement (as if in slowing terrain). It may not be used to also push an opposing figure, but it can be knocked over onto a figure and topple that target in a domino effect. Objects are their own terrain type, and is never combined with other types. They cannot be destroyed, although if knocked off the play surface are considered to be removed. 5.2 Sample terrain: Energon Tower - This would be an object, possible represented by a 20oz soda bottle with an inch or two of water in it. It can be knocked over, but cannot be pushed. Forest - Slowing and cover. While theoretically destroyable, it would still act as terrain over the time scale of a typical game. Highway noise barrier - Low barrier and cover. Build it from toothpicks or other similar short pieces, so that sections can be destroyed. Cybertronian fortress - An object, represented by a large textbook, toolbox, or other immobile thing. No one gets in or out during the game. Cybertronian stockade - A series of high barriers. Build from short but robust segments, such as folded over pieces of cardstock. Junkyard - A pile of objects small enough that a Thrower melee attacker could conceivably throw bits of it at opponents. Alternately, slowing with cover. Underground Maze - Draw lines on the map as indestructible high barriers. Perhaps mark weak points as destroyable high barriers. Mega figures may not enter this map. 6.0 Etiquette: Never touch an opponent's figure without permission. Do not tik a figure except when moving it, such as to check what numbers are coming up. Do not move any figure at an angle so that it moves farther per tik. If you have a figure that tix quietly, do not try to sneak an extra tik or two into your movement. Always reload missiles at the end of your turn, but not before. If a Battle Master falls over spontaneously, you may reset it. But if any triggers had been tripped, you must re-press them after resetting. If a rules dispute comes up and there is no impartial referee, cover an out-of-play figure's Speed window and grind it. The other player calls "red" or "white", as if calling a coin flip. Reveal the Speed window to see if the call was correct.